Types of Katori / Princess Cut Blouse

Keerthi Ezhil

Saree with Princess Cut blouse cherished by all women for the motive that of its perfect fit to the body. Types of Katori / Princess Cut Blouse depend on the dart line starts from Armhole, neckline, shoulder and waist line. Here I give you a very easy DIY Princess cut draft from Basic saree blouse draft.

Princess Seam from Armhole:

Princess Seam from Neckline:

Princess Seam from Shoulder:

Princess Seam from Centre Front line:

Back Blouse draft and sleeves draft are same as Basic Saree blouse. First we are going to know the construction method of Princess Seam from armhole.

Note: Please confirm your measurements with the marked measurements in draft. Make simple adjustments (If need) to avoid rework, because measurements are vary from one another and the design of blouse.

Measurement:

Back length                                                                Front length

Chest                                                                           Waist

Shoulder                                                                    Point length (or) ½ chest + 1” approx.,

Distance between points                                          Across back

Across front                                                               Armhole

Top sleeve                                                                 Sleeve length

Round arm                                                                 Front neck depth

Back neck depth

Material calculation:

2 length + 1sleeve length + 4” SA

Click HERE to see the full construction method of Basic Blouse Front & Back and Sleeve Draft.

WAIST BAND:

(1-2)   = ¼waist

(2-3)   = (3-4) of back draft – (3-16) of front draft

(1-4)   = Front Length – 0-15                      6 is the mid point of (1-2)

(5-6)   = (12-13) – 1.5cms

(3-3’)  = 1.5cms outside                               Join (3’-2)

(1-2) can be taken on fold

Drafting Instruction:

• PAPER DRAFT:

First draw the front Blouse draft with these following alterations:

Avoid 9’ and centre front dart and 19.

Change the Big dart by reducing width of dart. 12-13 = 12-14 = 1.5cms

Join the 2 dart ends with soft curved line through the Bust point 11.

• Then cut the pieces to separate.

Cutting line of 1^st Piece 9-7’-5’-20-21-11-17-13-15

Cutting line of 2^nd Piece 14-17-11-21-20-3-16-14

• Now use the paper draft to cut fabric. Give 1cm Seam allowance at the Princess seam line.
• Make waist band, back part & Sleeve. (Same as basic saree blouse. Refer that link above)

Sewing Instruction:

• Now u has 4 pieces of Front part. First Place the 1^st and 2^nd pieces by facing right sides together and sew along the curved line. Repeat the same with sewed piece with 3^rd piece and join 4^th piece (Waist Band) to complete the front part.
• Time to attach shoulders of front and back parts appropriately.
• Sleeves have to be added with blouse. First finish the hemline of sleeves and atta
  ch the left and right sleeves to the blouse.
• Now attach the side seams using 2cms seam allowance. Stitch has to start from the hemline of sleeve and ends with the hem line of blouse.
• The neckline has to be finished with bias (cross piece) piece.
• If u wants to make opening place it at back with button stand otherwise attach tie cord at Back shoulder.

I hope this will help to make your own Katori / Princess Cut Blouse…

I need to know your feedback & suggestions to make my work better. So please send your view in comment box… Thank u all..

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