Saree Blouse Tutorial

Keerthi Ezhil

Saree or sari is the traditional wear in South Asia especially in India. It has different ways of wearing style that depends upon the state, region and community. The sari is the most elegant and beautiful wear. It can be worn for different occasions, in different ways to give you a different look each time. Saree is always worn with Blouse. Here is the tutorial for the Saree Blouse.

Measurement:

Back length                                                                                        Front length

Chest                                                                                                     Waist

Shoulder                                                                                             Point length (or) ½ chest + 1” approx.,

Distance between points                                                             Across back

Across front                                                                                      Armhole

Top sleeve                                                                                          Sleeve length

Round arm                                                                                         Front neck depth

Back neck depth

Material calculation:

2 length + 1sleeve length + 4” SA

Construction: BACK PART PATTERN

(0-1) = length

(0-2) = Armhole depth

• 1/5 chest for up to 30” chest measurement.
• ¼ chest – 1/15 chest for 30” to 35.5” of chest measurement.
• 1/6 chest for 35.5” and above chest measurement.

(2-3)     = Chest line = ¼ chest +1¾”

(1-4)     = Waist line = ¼ waist + 2cms for dart.                                P is the mid point of (1-4)

(P-Q)    = dart length = 3” to 3½”

(R-P)    = (P-S) = 1cm

(0-5)     & (2-6’) = ½ shoulder

(5-6)     = shoulder drop = 1cm

(0-7)     = 1/12^th chest

(0-8)     = Back neck depth as desired

(0-7’)    = 1/8^th chest – 1.5cms                                  7’ is on the line (7-6)

(6-5’)    = shoulder is pushed in by 2cms for low neck measurements.

(6’-B)    = ½ across back.                                              Shape armhole from 5’-B-3

Measure 5’-B-3 should be equal to ½ armhole (+/- 0.5cm)

Cutting line:

8-7’-5’-B-3-4-1   (8-1) on fold.

FRONT PART PATTERN

(0-1) = front length

(0-2), (0-5), (2-6), (0-7), (0-7’), (6-5), (2-3), (6-5’) & (1-4) same as back construction

(0-10)  = Point length (or) ¼chest + 2cms

(10-11)                = ½distance between points

(11-12)                = (10-1)

(1-15)  = 5cms                                 (4-16)  = 3cms

(0-9)    = front neck depth

(9-9’)    = 1.5cms inside

Join (9’-15)                        Join (15-12) & (16-12)

Diagonal line for a normal figure & curved line for a heavier figure.

DARTS:

Centre big dart:

(12-14)                = (12-13) = 3cms for sizes upto 90cms

= 4cms for sizes above 90cms

(11-17)                = 1.5cms

Dart length (17-12) should be approximately 6cms.

Centre front dart:

(10-18)                = 0.5cm an either side

18 is 1.5cms from 11.

Armhole dart:

(3-20)  = 1/12 of chest    0.5cm on either sides of 20.

21 is 3cms from 17.

(2-A)     = (6’-B) = 1/3of (6-6’).      (A-B) = ½across front.

Shape 5’-B-3 front armhole curve.

Measure 5’-B-3 it should be more than actual armhole by 1cm.

5’-B-3 front armhole curve is a deeper curve than the back armhole curve.

Waist line:

Measure (15-12) and mark the same as (12-19). If (15-12) is 4” means mark (12-19) 4”.

Join (3-19) side seam.

(13-15) + (14-19) = ¼waist + 2cms

Cutting line:

9’-7’-5’-13-3-19-12-5-9’

WAIST BAND:

(1-2)     = ¼waist

(2-3)     = (3-4) of back draft – (3-19) of front draft

(1-4)     = (12-13) +2cms                             6 is the mid point of (1-2)

(5-6)     = (12-13) – 1.5cms

(3-3’)    = 1.5cms outside                                             Join (3’-2)

(1-2) can be taken on fold.

SLEEVE:

(0-1) = sleeve length

(0-2) = 1/12 chest +2cms

(2-3)     = ½ top sleeve + 1.5cms (or) (0-2) of body draft + 1.5cms

(1-4)     = ½ round arm

Join (0-3) and divide into 4 equal parts at a, b, c

(a-a’)     = 1.5cms outside

(b-b’)    = 0.5cms outside

(c-c’)     = 0.5cms inside

(c-c’’)    = 1.5cms inside

Shape back armhole curve (0-a’-b’-c’-3)

Shape front armhole curve (0-a’-b’-c’’-3)

SEAM ALLOWANCE:

0.5cms at neck line

1cm at armhole curve and waist band hemline

1.5cms at shoulder line

2 to 2.5cms at side seam and back part hemline

1cm at waist band and Centre Front.

Stitching Instructions:

• 2 Straight pieces for hook strips and Bias (cross pieces) for neckline has to be cut with appropriate measurements.
• First 2 small darts have to stitch at the back part straight to the shoulders.
• Then the main three darts have to be stitched carefully in the front part. The dart stitched at the bottom should be bigger that the 2 darts at the left and right sides.
• The Waist band part has to be stitched after stitching the three main darts, the front part has to be stitched to the Waistband part. After attaching the Waist band to front part the length is equals to the back part.
• Turn the front pieces wrong side out and sew along the hemlines (separately) with 1cm seam allowance. Turn right side out and press.
• Now have to attach the straight pieces to make the hook straps at the either side of front opening.
• Time to attach shoulders of front and back parts correctly.
• Sleeves have to be added with blouse. First finish the hemline of sleeves and attach the left and right sleeves to the blouse.
• Now attach the side seams using 2cms seam allowance. Stitch has to start from the hemline of sleeve and ends with the hem line of blouse.
• The neckline has to be fished with bias (cross piece) piece.
• Attach hook and lock on an either hook strips at front opening.

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