Killer Things: Lehenga / Ghagra Choli Cutting Sewing Tutorial

Friday, September 25, 2015

Lehenga / Ghagra Choli Cutting Sewing Tutorial

Lehenga / Ghagra Choli is a combination outfit of a Lehenga, tight choli and Dupatta (shawl). The Lehenga Choli is very unique dress from India which is mostly worn by the bride in the wedding. It is also traditional dress in some part of India. Now a day it worn during festivals, wedding or any special events; it is the most eye-catching one. You can make this Lehenga / Ghagra Choli with your tasteful shading combination.

Measurements:

Waist:

Seat :

Skirt length:

Materials suggested:

Silk, Silk cotton,

Materials required:

2½ meters to 3½ meters of fabric and 1” Elastic

Construction:

(0-1); (0-2); (0-3) = 1/3 Seat + 4cms

m is the mid point of (1-2) & n is the mid point of (2-3)

(1-4); (m-o); (2-5); (n-p); (3-6) = Skirt length – WB.

(1-x); (3-y) = 2cms inside.

(1-x’); (3-y’) = 1/4 Seat – 2cms .

Join (x-y) & (x’-y’)

For WB (Waist Band): Measure (x-y) on the curve through m-2-n = 80cms width and 10cms height

For Border: Measure along the hem line

Cutting line:

X’-1-x-m-2-n-y-y’-6-p-5-o-4

Seam allowance should be 1cm for all sides except hemline. 2cms hemline seam allowance.

Sewing Instructions:

Sew dart at side seam by facing right sides together using a 1cm seam allowance. After sewing press seams.

On hemline fold 1cm inside & press, again fold 1cm (double folding) inside and press. Then sew along the line shown in above picture.

If you want to attach border, seam allowance should be 1cm & sew by facing wrong side of the Lehenga and right side of border, then fold the border towards right side of Lehenga and fold 1cm inside the border then sew. For more detailed images click HERE.

Make waist band with the instructions.

Insert the Lehenga skirt in between the two folded open edges of Waist band and pin it. Sew along the line mentioned in above picture. (Adjust the elastic waist band while sewing. pins help for faultless finish)

Sew along the side seams by facing right sides together.

Now the Lehenga Skirt is ready….

Choli Measurements:

Choli length- Chest –

Waist – Waist Length –

Shoulder – Front & Back neck depth-

Materials suggested:

Crepe fabric, Net, Satin, Silk

Materials required:

Main fabric, lining (Option: Border)

Ghagra Choli Drafting:

(0-1) = Choli length

(0-2) = Armhole depth (1/6 chest+1/2”)

(2-3) = ¼ chest +1”

(0-10) = Waist length

(10-11) = ¼ waist + 1”

(1-4) = (2-3)

(1-M) = 1.5cms down for shaping. Join (4-M). Join (3-11-4) side seam.

(0-5) & (2-6’) = ½ shoulder

(5-6) = Shoulder drop 1.5cms down

(0-7) = Neck width = 1/12 chest Join the shoulder line.

X is the mid point of (6-6’). (X-X’) = 0.5cm inside.

Shape 6-X -3 for back armhole curve. Shape 6-X’-3 for Front armhole curve.

(0-8) = Back neck depth Shape (8-7) for back neck curve.

(8-8’) & (1-1’) & (M-M’) = 1cms for Zipper or 6cms for Button stand. (U can make Button stand with separate rectangle pieces)

(0-9) = Front neck depth Shape (9-7) for Front neck curve.

A is mid point of (1-4)

B is mid point of (10-11)

C is mid point of (2-3)

For Front part: Join A-B-C. Mark on the line A’ ½” above point A, C’ ½” below point C and mark ½” either sides of B. Now join the dart lines A’-C’ as shown in draft.

For Back part: Join A-B-C. Mark ½” either sides of B. Now join the dart lines A-C as shown in draft.

Seam allowance should be 1cm for all sides except (8’-M’).

Sewing Instructions:

Step 1:

First draw paper draft then mark it on fabrics with seam allowances. Cut the Front and Back pieces in both main fabric and lining.

Step 2:

Place Front parts of main fabric & lining by facing Right sides together and sew along the neckline and armhole. Turn right sides out and press.

Repeat the above action for the Back part pieces.

Step 3:

Sew along the marked Dart lines at 2 sides of both front & back parts.

Step 4:

Finish Button stand of back opening. Click HERE to see the images and instructions of Zip fixing and hemline border.

Step 5:

Sew along shoulder seams and side seams by facing the right side of main fabrics both front and back parts together. Then finish hemline with ¼” double fold inside. If u like to add Sleeves, u should avoid armhole portion at Step2. Before attaching the side seams u have to attach sleeve.

For sleeve draft Click HERE.