Killer Things: Straight Kameez Cutting-Sewing Tutorial

Thursday, August 20, 2015

Straight Kameez Cutting-Sewing Tutorial

Straight Kameez (Tops) Tutorial

Kameez is a traditional costume of Punjab. It is used along with Salwar, Churidar or denim pants. The neckline can be shaped according to fashion. This garment is basically cut into three pieces, the front, back and sleeve. Darts are used to give fit or shape to the garment.

The construction of this tutorial may look long but it is very easy, just follow the instructions and you will end up with your own Kameez top.

Measurement:

Length –

Chest –

Shoulder-

Waist length-

Hip length-

Waist –

Hip –

Armhole-

Sleeve length-

Round arm-

Neck width-

Front & Back Neck depth-

Material Required:

1¼ Mtrs

Construction: Front

(0-1) = Kameez length (desired length)

(0-2) = Armhole depth = ¼ chest – 1”(for Medium figure) or 2”(for heavier figure)

(2-3) = Chest line = ¼ chest + 1” (for Tight fit) or 2” (for loose fit)

(5-6) = Shoulder drop = 1cm

(0-5) & (2-6’) = ½ shoulder

(0-7) = Neck width

(0-9) = Front neck depth

X is mid point of 6-6’. (x-x’) = 1cm

Shape (6-x’-3) front armhole curve.

Measure 6-x’-3 it should be more than ½ armhole by 3 to 4cms.

(0-10) = waist length

(10-11)= ¼ waist + 1” or 2” (same as chest line)

(0-12) = Hip length

(12-13)= Hip line = ¼ hip+2”

(1-4) = same as hip line

(4-4’) = 1” up for shaping. Join (1-4’) hem line

(4’-13) = Slit opening (Slit should not cross the Hip line)

Cutting line:

9-7-6-x’-3-11-13-4’-1 (9-1) on fold

Construction: Back

(0-1) = Kameez length

(0-2) = Armhole depth = ¼ chest – 1”(for Medium figure) or 2”(for heavier figure)

(2-3) = Chest line = ¼ chest + 1” (for Tight fit) or 2” (for loose fit)

(5-6) = Shoulder drop = 1cm

(0-5) & (2-6’) = ½ shoulder

(0-7) = Neck width

(0-8) = Back neck depth

(8-8’) = Back slit opening = 1/6 chest + 1”

X is mid point of 6-6’.

Shape (6-x-3) front armhole curve.

Measure 6-x-3 it should be more than ½ armhole by 3 to 4cms.

(0-10) = waist length

(10-11)= ¼ waist + 1” or 2” (same as chest line)

(0-12) = Hip length

(12-13)= Hip line = ¼ hip+2”

(1-4) = same as hip line

(4-4’) = 1” up for shaping. Join (1-4’) hem line

(4’-13) = Slit opening (Slit should not cross the Hip line)

Cutting line:

8-7-6-x-3-11-13-4’-1 (8-1) on fold

Cut 8-8’ on fold for back neck slit opening (Neck slit opening need only at the circumference of head is lesser than neck circumference)

Construction: Sleeve

(0-1) = Sleeve length

(0-2) = 1/8 chest – 1½”

(2-3) = ¼ chest – ¾”

(1-4) = ½round arm

Join (3-4) under arm seam

Join (0-3)

X is the mid point of (0-3)

Take (x-x’) = 2 to 2.5cms up

Shape 0-x-3 front armhole curve

Shape 0-x’-3 front armhole curve

Cutting line:

1-4-3-x’-0 then cut through the first 2 layers 0-x-3

Seam Allowance:

¼” on neck line, armhole and back neck slit open

1” on side seams

1½” on hemlines

Sewing Instructions:

1. Take 2 Pieces of Kameez (Front and Back) 2 Pieces of Sleeve (Right and Left) and 2 rectangular pieces for Neck facing.

Click HERE to know about the Folding instructions for Kameez and sleeves.

2. Place the neck facing rectangular pieces for the front and back Kameez pieces respectively. Make sure that the right sides are together. Pin and sew along the neck line with ¼” seam allowance. Cut the excess of facing pieces and make notches on seam. Then turn right sides out and press. Give topstitch at neckline.

3. Place Kameez front and back pieces by facing right sides together and sew along the shoulder line to joint the two Kameez pieces together.

4. Fold the hemline of sleeve by ¼” inside and fold again ¾” inside and sew along the hemline at the edge of first folding.

5. Place the Sleeves right side on the top of Kameez armhole area respectively. Pin it and sew along with ¼” armhole seam allowance.

6. Turn Kameez wrong side out and sew along with 1” side seam allowance as right sides together (Start from Sleeve’s hemline and stop at the Hip line of Kameez).