Friday, August 14, 2015

Patiala Salwar Sewing Tutorial

Keerthi Ezhil

Patiala salwar patternThe Patiala salwar pattern is developed from the plain salwar pattern. This is one of the most fashionable salwars. It is worn with a long blouse like garment known as Kameez. It is used by all, irrespective of age and nationality. It is cut and sewed with a number of variations to suit different occasions and personalities. Salwar is varied to suit the current trend in fashion.

Measurements:

Salwar Length  :               41”

Hip                     :               38”

Waist to hip       :               8”

Ankle Round     :               12”

Material Suggested:

Cotton, grape.

Material Required:

3 ½ Mtrs

Patiala salwar pattern draftWaist Band Construction:

(0-1) & (2-3) = Waist to hip + 2” = 8”+1½” = 9½”

(0-2) & (1-3) = ½ hip + 2” = 19”+2” = 21”

Construction:

(0-1)& (2-3) = (p-r) & (q-s) = (Salwar Length – Waist Band Length) + 1½“= (41”-8”) +2½” = 35½”

(p-q) & (r-s) = approximately 13” (The maximum we can take 16”)

(1-4) & (2-5) = ½ Ankle round = 6”

Join (4-5)

(x-x’) & (y-y’) = 3” [you have to find 3” straight line in between (0-5) to (4-5) & (4-3) to (4-5)]

Cutting line:

0-x-x’-y’-4-1 & 2-5-x’-y’-y-4-3

p-q-r-s ( Separate pieces)

Waist Band Sewing Instructions:

Take 2 pieces of Waist Band and place it by facing right sides together. Leave 1” as unstitched gape at any one side seam (for inserting tie rope or elastic) as shown in the above picture. Sew along each side seams by ¼“. Press your seams open. Fold ¼” inside on the top of Waist Band and press. Then again fold 1” inside and sew along the end at first folding (1” below the top of Waist band)

Take 2 pieces of Waist Band and place it by facing right sides together. Leave 1” as unstitched gape at any one side seam (for inserting tie rope or elastic) as shown in the above picture. Sew along each side seams by ¼“. Press your seams open.
Fold ¼” inside on the top of Waist Band and press. Then again fold 1” inside and sew along the end at first folding (1” below the top of Waist band)

Sewing Instructions:

1.Join Leg kali pieces to Leg side piece. Place first kali piece and leg piece by facing right sides together and sew along ¼” away from edge. 2.Take the other leg kali piece and place it on the stitched leg pieces by facing right sides together and sew along ¼” away from edge. 3. Press your seams open. Do it again the above actions to make other leg part.

1. Join Leg kali pieces to Leg side piece. Place first kali piece and leg piece by facing right sides together and sew along ¼” away from edge.
2. Take the other leg kali piece and place it on the stitched leg pieces by facing right sides together and sew along ¼” away from edge.
3. Press your seams open. Do it again the above actions to make other leg part.

4.Pleat or gather top edge of each leg parts to fix the length of the ½ Waist Band.

4. Pleat or gather top edge of each leg parts to fix the length of the ½ Waist Band.

5.Fold ¼” inside the bottom of each leg parts and again double fold 1” inside and sew along the two sides of folded portion.

5. Fold ¼” inside the bottom of each leg parts and again double fold 1” inside and sew along the two sides of folded portion.

6.From Right side, do decorative stitching to the bottom of leg portion. This can be either matching or contrasting thread, depending on look desired. Fold half of the each leg part by facing right sides together. 7.Sew along the side seams of each leg parts away from ¼” to join sides.

6. From Right side, do decorative stitching to the bottom of leg portion. This can be either matching or contrasting thread, depending on look desired. Fold half of the each leg part by facing right sides together.
7. Sew along the side seams of each leg parts away from ¼” to join sides.

8.Turn the leg parts right side out. Place two leg parts crotch parts by facing right sides together and pin it. Then sew along the crotch parts.

8. Turn the leg parts right side out. Place two leg parts crotch parts by facing right sides together and pin it. Then sew along the crotch parts.

9.Insert the leg part to the Waist band by facing right sides together. 10.Sew along ¼” away from edge(adjust with pleats if need) to attach leg part to the Waist band. Turn right side out and Press.

9. Insert the leg part to the Waist band by facing right sides together.
10. Sew along ¼” away from edge(adjust with pleats if need) to attach leg part to the Waist band. Turn right side out and Press.

11.Insert Tie rope through the gape we provide at the top of waist band.

11. Insert Tie rope through the gape we provide at the top of waist band.

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