Sunday, July 3, 2016

How to Cut Trail Cut Dress?

Keerthi Ezhil

Trail cut Dress is latest in trend now. It has a simple rectangle piece skirt. Trail cut Dress sorted as a party wear. Double layer pattern makes it even more rich look. If it is short one can be paired with leggings, Jeggings and skinny jeans.

Measurement:cutting trail method

Length –

Chest     –

Shoulder-

Waist length-

Waist –

Hip         –

Armhole-

Sleeve length-

Round arm-

Neck width-

Front & Back Neck depth-

Material Required:

2 ½ Mtrs to 5Mtrs (depends up on individuals size)

Material suggestion:

Georgette, cotton, chiffon, crepe and silk. If u plans to make double layer, you can mix Georgette and chiffon with cotton.

Construction: Front & Back BodiceTrail cut dress bodice Pattern

(0-1)    = Bodice length (waist length)

(0-2)   = Armhole depth = ¼ chest – 1”(for Medium figure) or 2”(for heavier figure)

(2-3)     = Chest line = ¼ chest + 1” (for Tight fit) or 2” (for loose fit)

(5-6)     = Shoulder drop = 1cm

(0-5) & (2-6’) = ½ shoulder

(0-7)     = Neck width

(0-8)     = Back neck depth

(0-9)     = Front neck depth

X is midpoint of 6-6’.                    (x-x’)  = 1cm

Shape (6-x-3) back armhole curve.

Shape (6-x’-3) front armhole curve.

Measure 6-x’-3 it should be more than ½ armhole by 3 to 4cms.

(1-4)     = ¼ waist + 1” or 2” (same as chest line)

0-10     = waist length – 2½”

10-11   = straight line

11-11’  = 1” inside.  Join 3-11’-4

Cutting line:

9-7-6-x’-3-11’-4-1                    (9-1) on fold

8-7-6-x-3-11’-4-1                     (8-1) on fold

Cut 8-8’ on fold for back neck slit opening (Neck slit opening need only at the circumference of head is lesser than neck circumference)

Construction: Skirt

(0-1), (0-2) = Desire dress length – Waist length

Draw straight horizontal and vertical lines from point 1 and 2. Mark the meeting point of that line as 0’. This looks like a perfect square.

0-3, 0-4, 0-5 = 1/6 waist

Join 3-4-5

Cutting line:

4-3-5-2-0’-1

Seam Allowance:

¼” on neck line, armhole and back neck slit open

1” on side seams

1½” on hemlines

Cutting Instruction:Trail cut dress difference

  1. Here is the draft for skirt part. You have to make it with 2 materials for layers one is Cotton and the other one Chiffon.
  2. Fold along the line mentioned in picture 1 & 2.
  3. Now we have 4layers for skirt portion.
  4. Mark and cut with the above construction details.
  5. Mark little curve at 0’ corner and cut off that curve.
  6. You can avoid the above step to make variation.

Take a look at the below picture for the outcome of draft.

Sewing Instructions:

  1. Take 2 Pieces of bodice (Front and Back) 2 Pieces of Sleeve Click HERE to know about the Cap Sleeve (Right and Left) and 2 rectangular pieces for Neck facing.
  2. Place the neck facing rectangular pieces for the front and back Bodice pieces respectively. Make sure that the right sides are together. Pin and sew along the neck line with ¼” seam allowance. Cut the excess of facing pieces and make notches on seam. Then turn right sides out and press. Give topstitch at neckline.
  3. Place Bodice front and back pieces by facing right sides together and sew along the shoulder line to join the two Bodice pieces together.
  4. Fold the hemline of sleeve by ¼” inside and fold again ¾” inside and sew along the hemline at the edge of first folding.
  5. Place the Sleeves right side on the top of Bodice armhole area respectively. Pin it and sew along with ¼” armhole seam allowance.
  6. Turn Bodice wrong side out and sew along with 1” side seam allowance as right sides together.
  7. Then attach the skirts waistline together to make a perfect look (Refer above picture). Finish hem line.
  8. Then attach the skirt into Bodice part by facing right sides together.

Now you get a STYLISH TRAIL CUT DRESS.

Here is some more inspiration to make your own dress with this style.

Trail cut - double layer

Trail Cut Double Layer

Trail Cut Single Layer

Trail Cut Single Layer

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