Friday, October 2, 2015

Panel Anarkali Cutting – Sewing

Keerthi Ezhil

This type of Anarkali has panels of its full length. The numAnarkali with straignt Panelsber of panels may vary… but that panel lines give enormous look to Anarkali. These types of Anarkali outlines are same as A line Anarkali. This is usually having fit body upto waist line or low waist line from shoulder and the remaining till hemline having flare look with panels.

Here we are going to learn how to make  Panel Anarkali Cutting form Basic Kameez draft. First we should know about the basic Kameez draft.

Click HERE to see Kameez draft construction method & sleeve.

Measurement:

Shoulder to under bust length-

High waist (Measure around under bust)-

Material Required:

2 to 3 Mtrs

Material Suggested:

Thin fabrics like chiffon, Georgette, net, tissue & cotton with suitable lining.

Construction: Front & Back

If u wants to make high waist line Anarkali add this following construction points to the basic Kameez draft.

(0-10’)             = Shoulder to under bust length

(10’-11’) = ½ high waist

Then Join 11’-4’ side seam line.

anarkali with straight panel cutting

Instruction for A-line draft & Flare type draft:

  • Mark the centre points of (1-4) & (12-13) and draw line to join that points.

Cut the line and slash as like as the draft 1. Now you have A-line draft.

  • Draw a straight upward line form the mid point of (12-13) to meet the line (10-11) in A-line draft.

Cut the line and slash to have a flare draft. Refer draft 1 image.

Cutting line:

Front: 9-7-6-x’-3-11-13-4’-1                     (9-1) on fold

Back: 8-7-6-x-3-11-13-4’-1                       (8-1) on fold

Cut 8-8’ on fold for back neck slit opening

[Note:

  • Neck slit opening need only at the circumference of head is lesser than neck circumference.
  • If it is high waist Anarkali use point 11’ instead of 11 in Cutting line instruction.]

anarkali drafting method

  • We are not yet finish the draft work… open the fold of front & back draft and mark 8 divided equal points at chest line, waist line, Hip line and Hem line.
  • Join the darts vertically (Refer Draft 2 image) and then make the line little curve to give a nice look.
  • Cut along these lines to separate each 8 pieces of front & back part. Then place these pieces to cut the fabric with ¼” seam allowance.

Seam Allowance:

¼” on neck line, armhole and back neck slit open

1” on side seams

1½” on hemlines

 

Sewing Instruction:

  • Now we should have 16 pieces of Front & back part Anarkali, 2 sleeve and lining.
  • Lining can be cut by using draft 1.
  • First we have to join these separated pieces together by sewing. When we make the complete front & back parts then the other sewing instructions are same as Kameez.

Click HERE to refer Kameez sewing instruction.

I hope these tutorials are useful for you… convey your view about these tutorials here in comment box… Thanks for your support. Happy Sewing… J

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