Email Marketing For Movies (Why You Need To Start Now!)

In this article, indie filmmaker Jason Brubaker explains the importance of audience list building and email marketing for movies.

Run’n’gun filmmaking with the iPhone 6S

Here’s a one-minute film I shot with the Ztylus lenses and Pistol Grip from my iPhone documentary kit. I took them out on my favourite 10k trail run in the hills north of Cardiff. I used Filmic Pro for the recording.

Verdict? The clamp felt very secure.  The pistol grip works really well and makes it much easier to hold the camera steady, get moving selfies, and film unusual angles and point of view shots. But I left the D-ring off the bottom of the grip as it rattles.

The mount held the lenses securely but they were easy to swap.

Both lenses were fine, though the wide angle is a lot easier to handhold. The only real issue was focus: Filmic Pro is slower to find focus than the native Camera app, and tends to ‘hunt’ and drift in and out of focus unless you lock it. You can see this in the shots of me at the  beginning.

You need to set the focus reticle at the centre of the image, where the lens is sharpest. I had some shots where one side of the shot was in focus but the other was soft.

It’s a good idea to set and lock white balance and exposure as well; the app seems to ‘jump’ between shutter speeds rather than adjusting exposure smoothly. The images also look better if you underexpose slightly, either by setting a faster shutter speed or using the exposure override.

Ztylus lens review

iPhone microphone comparison test

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How to draw a head scarf

When you draw a head scarf keep in mind that there should be enough space for the skull and the hair to fit in. Adding folds will make your drawing more realistic.

The post How to draw a head scarf appeared first on I Draw Fashion.

iPhone microphone comparison test

I thought I’d try out some iPhone microphone solutions in the real world. So I clamped my iPhone 6S to a tripod outdoors on my patio. The phone was pointing towards solid walls, but there were children playing in the park about 100 feet (30 metres) behind me. I stood about three feet (a metre) from the phone.

I used Filmic Pro as it has adjustable audio levels and an meter. I’ve adjusted the sound levels in Final Cut Pro X, but I haven’t added any other audio corrections.

Apologies to any Shakespeare fans for my uninspired recital…

Connecting external microphones

You can use microphones that are designed for smartphones, or you can use an adapter to connect other microphones. This gives you a bigger choice.

To connect non-dedicated microphones, you need a TRS-TRRS adapter. The Rode SC4 works well.

You should really monitor your audio as you film. Filmic Pro lets you do this, with the right adapter (see the kit list on this page) but unfortunately there’s an issue with the iPhone 6 and 6S. Sometimes it works fine, but sometimes I can’t hear the headphones, or Siri launches as soon as I connect them.

The iPhone microphone

The built-in back microphone is OK if you’re shooting a closeup without too much background noise.

But it struggles in this situation. The level is low, you can hear wind interference, and there’s a lot of background noise.

Lavalier microphones

Microphones on the camera are never ideal, unless you’re really close: you need the microphone near the sound source. So for speech, a lavalier or ‘lav’ on the presenter or actor’s clothing is best. But when it’s connected directly to the camera, it limits how far the person can move.

Wireless systems don’t have this problem, but they’re expensive. A cheaper option is to plug the lav mic into another phone in the presenter’s pocket, then sync the sound later.

Rode smartLav+

This relatively affordable, unpowered lav microphone connects directly to the iPhone’s microphone/headphone socket. You can also get an SC6 adapter which lets you monitor on headphones and connect a second smartLav+ (though this can also suffer iPhone 6/6S issues). The wire clip that attaches it to clothing is very secure, unlike some cheaper lav mics, and allows you to loop the lead to reduce strain and handling noise.

Sound from the smartLav+ is good.

Audio Technica ATR-3350

I was really surprised by how well this inexpensive lav microphone performed. In the past I’ve tried using it with a Zoom H1 audio recorder and had trouble with levels and hiss. But it works fine on an iPhone with the SC4 adapter.

The ATR3350 has an extremely long lead, which gives your presenter a fair bit of freedom of movement. It’s not perfect: it’s easy to lose the clip, changing the SR44 button battery is fiddly, and it’s easy to forget to turn it off. The current version – the ATR3350IS – includes a smartphone adapter.

Sound is a bit thinner than the Rode, but it’s great for the price.

Directional microphones

If you’re moving around a lot, a directional microphone might be a better choice than a lav.

Rode VideoMic Me

This is a very small, discreet microphone for smartphones. It’s easy to attach and has a ‘pass-through’ headphone socket so you can listen as you record (I didn’t encounter any problems using it with the 6S). It comes with a bulky but effective furry windjammer.

It produces much clearer sound than the built-in mic, with a better level, though you can still hear quite a bit of background noise.

Rode VideoMic Pro (original version)

This powered directional mic lets you switch between audio levels and has a ‘low cut’ option. It needs an adapter. (The current version has more sensitivity and a better suspension system.)

I added a Deadcat furry windjammer, which is essential for working outside but not all that effective. It’s OK with light winds but you can still get trouble with gusts. This setup is fine with the standard lens, but the Deadcat appears in shot if you use a wide angle adapter. I’ve now bought a hot shoe extender to position it further away from the lens; you could also use a straight flash bracket between the clamp and the tripod or pistol grip.

Sound is good as long as you’re fairly close.

Wireless systems

Wireless systems let you use a lav mic without tethering your presenter to the camera. Both these systems are digital, so the signal level doesn’t vary as long as you’re within range. (The Rodelink recording was from about 10 metres away, and I could still get a clear signal from twice as far). They use the same 2.4Ghz waveband as wi-fi, which might interfere with the signal, but I didn’t encounter any problems.

Samson XPD1

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This affordable wireless lav system is neat and compact: the little USB receiver connects to the iPhone through the Lightning socket. It’s easy to set up and pair.

The sound seems fairly ‘rounded’ but I had to turn the level up which causes hiss. I’ll do a full review of this system soon, and I’ll also do some experiments to see how easy it is to clean up the audio.

Rodelink Filmmaker Kit

I use this system a lot with my camcorders and DSLR. It’s reasonably priced for a pro wireless system, but it still costs about four times as much as the XPD1. Pairing is simple and you can select different gain levels. With an adapter, it works very well with the iPhone. The supplied furry wind cover is far more effective than the Deadcat. But the receiver and transmitter are bulky.

The Rodelink system has very good sound.

Summary

The best value option for recording speech is the Audio Technica ATR3350IS . The RodesmartLav+ has significantly better sound quality, but it’s more expensive.

The best quality setup I tested is the Rodelink Filmmaker Kit (needs adapter). But if you want wireless on a budget, the Samson XPD1[/easyazon_link] is a lot cheaper.

The VideoMic Me is a good choice for an on-camera mic. The VideoMic Pro is better (at about three times the price) but it’s a lot bigger and more obtrusive.

My choice for a discreet system? The VideoMic Me, plus a Smartlav+ or ATR3350IS, plugged into a separate phone.

The post iPhone microphone comparison test appeared first on Learn about film.

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5 Ways To Succeed As a Modern Filmmaker

The world has changed. If you are looking to become a filmmaking success, this article is for you. We share 5 ways you can succeed as a modern filmmaker.

Drafting and Sewing Cap Sleeve

Keerthi Ezhil

About Sleeves: Sleeves are both functional and design elements of a garment. As functional elements, sleeves must allow for freedom of movement and comfort and must enhance the overall purpose of the garment. As design elements, sleeves should complement the bodice to which they are attached. Cap sleeves are very short sleeve on a dress, shaped by lengthening only the shoulder part of the dress to form like a cap extension.

Cap-sleeve designs are the perfect solution for modest look especially for party wear dresses. Cap sleeves are suitable for formal dresses and sundresses also.  Join up your cap dress with a cardigan and you have the definition of unpretentious style. This sleeve looks good on pear-shaped body. Cap sleeve most liked by teenagers and mostly found on short dress and casual dress. Now you are going to learn drafting and sewing cap sleeve.

We can draft this in two types. First one is making a fresh construction draft. Second one is making with basic sleeve draft.

Construction:

0-1 = 1/8 chest – 1½”

1-2 = ¼ chest – ¾” This line is called bicep line.

Join 0-2

Mark x. x is the midpoint of 0-2

Take (x-x’) = 1.5 to 2cms up

Make a shape of 0-x-2 as a front armhole curve

Make a shape of 0-x’-2 as a front armhole curve

Mark 1’ as 1.5cms to 2.5cms above from 1

Seam Allowance:

¼” armhole

1½” on hemlines

We can make this cap sleeve with our basic sleeve draft by following instructions:

• Take your sleeve draft and draw bicep line and grain line. Click here to learn draft details of BASIC SLEEVE.
• Mark the meeting point of bicep line and grain line. Then make another mark 1.5cms to 2.5cms above the previous mark.
• Join the armhole edges through this mark with gentle curve line. Yes…Now you get the cap sleeve draft.

Sewing Instruction:

• Finish the sleeve edge by folding it up twice and stitching it flat.
• Turn the dress or top inside out
• Pin the curve to your armhole side by facing right sides together.
• Sew the sleeve into the armhole.
• Repeat the process for the other sleeve.

Things to remember:

• Be sure to mark where the sleeve ends on the front and back at bodice.
• For a basic sleeve, you could turn and stitch the hem, but this sleeve looks finest with a hem facing. The facing should be applied before setting the sleeve into the armhole.
• Grain line is the fold line in draft.

Cap Sleeve Variations:

• First one that mentioned in below picture is Basic Cap sleeve that start and end at side seam.
• Second one is start and end 1” to 2” away from side seam.

Third one is start and end with Point x and x’ (mentioned in construction draft). This type of cap sleeve pattern mostly suitable for strapless dresses to make a trendy look.

Cap sleeves are effective for women who are self-aware about their shoulders. V-shaped bodies look predominantly good in cap sleeves, because of the style’s ability to make the shoulders look narrower.

The post Drafting and Sewing Cap Sleeve appeared first on Style2Designer.

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Memorize The Make My Movie Mantra (Then Take Action!)

The life you live today is a result of the decisions that you made in the past. The life you live tomorrow will be a result of the decisions you make right now. Make your choices, but choose wisely. The world is waiting to watch your movies. Take action: Make your movie now!