How to Cut Trail Cut Dress?

Keerthi Ezhil

Trail cut Dress is latest in trend now. It has a simple rectangle piece skirt. Trail cut Dress sorted as a party wear. Double layer pattern makes it even more rich look. If it is short one can be paired with leggings, Jeggings and skinny jeans.

Measurement:

Length –

Chest     –

Shoulder-

Waist length-

Waist –

Hip         –

Armhole-

Sleeve length-

Round arm-

Neck width-

Front & Back Neck depth-

Material Required:

2 ½ Mtrs to 5Mtrs (depends up on individuals size)

Material suggestion:

Georgette, cotton, chiffon, crepe and silk. If u plans to make double layer, you can mix Georgette and chiffon with cotton.

Construction: Front & Back Bodice

(0-1)    = Bodice length (waist length)

(0-2)   = Armhole depth = ¼ chest – 1”(for Medium figure) or 2”(for heavier figure)

(2-3)     = Chest line = ¼ chest + 1” (for Tight fit) or 2” (for loose fit)

(5-6)     = Shoulder drop = 1cm

(0-5) & (2-6’) = ½ shoulder

(0-7)     = Neck width

(0-8)     = Back neck depth

(0-9)     = Front neck depth

X is midpoint of 6-6’.                    (x-x’)  = 1cm

Shape (6-x-3) back armhole curve.

Shape (6-x’-3) front armhole curve.

Measure 6-x’-3 it should be more than ½ armhole by 3 to 4cms.

(1-4)     = ¼ waist + 1” or 2” (same as chest line)

0-10     = waist length – 2½”

10-11   = straight line

11-11’  = 1” inside.  Join 3-11’-4

Cutting line:

9-7-6-x’-3-11’-4-1                    (9-1) on fold

8-7-6-x-3-11’-4-1                     (8-1) on fold

Cut 8-8’ on fold for back neck slit opening (Neck slit opening need only at the circumference of head is lesser than neck circumference)

Construction: Skirt

(0-1), (0-2) = Desire dress length – Waist length

Draw straight horizontal and vertical lines from point 1 and 2. Mark the meeting point of that line as 0’. This looks like a perfect square.

0-3, 0-4, 0-5 = 1/6 waist

Join 3-4-5

Cutting line:

4-3-5-2-0’-1

Seam Allowance:

¼” on neck line, armhole and back neck slit open

1” on side seams

1½” on hemlines

Cutting Instruction:

1. Here is the draft for skirt part. You have to make it with 2 materials for layers one is Cotton and the other one Chiffon.
2. Fold along the line mentioned in picture 1 & 2.
3. Now we have 4layers for skirt portion.
4. Mark and cut with the above construction details.
5. Mark little curve at 0’ corner and cut off that curve.
6. You can avoid the above step to make variation.

Take a look at the below picture for the outcome of draft.

Sewing Instructions:

1. Take 2 Pieces of bodice (Front and Back) 2 Pieces of Sleeve Click HERE to know about the Cap Sleeve (Right and Left) and 2 rectangular pieces for Neck facing.
2. Place the neck facing rectangular pieces for the front and back Bodice pieces respectively. Make sure that the right sides are together. Pin and sew along the neck line with ¼” seam allowance. Cut the excess of facing pieces and make notches on seam. Then turn right sides out and press. Give topstitch at neckline.
3. Place Bodice front and back pieces by facing right sides together and sew along the shoulder line to join the two Bodice pieces together.
4. Fold the hemline of sleeve by ¼” inside and fold again ¾” inside and sew along the hemline at the edge of first folding.
5. Place the Sleeves right side on the top of Bodice armhole area respectively. Pin it and sew along with ¼” armhole seam allowance.
6. Turn Bodice wrong side out and sew along with 1” side seam allowance as right sides together.
7. Then attach the skirts waistline together to make a perfect look (Refer above picture). Finish hem line.
8. Then attach the skirt into Bodice part by facing right sides together.

Now you get a STYLISH TRAIL CUT DRESS.

Here is some more inspiration to make your own dress with this style.

Trail Cut Double Layer

Trail Cut Single Layer

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Drafting and Sewing Cap Sleeve

Keerthi Ezhil

About Sleeves: Sleeves are both functional and design elements of a garment. As functional elements, sleeves must allow for freedom of movement and comfort and must enhance the overall purpose of the garment. As design elements, sleeves should complement the bodice to which they are attached. Cap sleeves are very short sleeve on a dress, shaped by lengthening only the shoulder part of the dress to form like a cap extension.

Cap-sleeve designs are the perfect solution for modest look especially for party wear dresses. Cap sleeves are suitable for formal dresses and sundresses also.  Join up your cap dress with a cardigan and you have the definition of unpretentious style. This sleeve looks good on pear-shaped body. Cap sleeve most liked by teenagers and mostly found on short dress and casual dress. Now you are going to learn drafting and sewing cap sleeve.

We can draft this in two types. First one is making a fresh construction draft. Second one is making with basic sleeve draft.

Construction:

0-1 = 1/8 chest – 1½”

1-2 = ¼ chest – ¾” This line is called bicep line.

Join 0-2

Mark x. x is the midpoint of 0-2

Take (x-x’) = 1.5 to 2cms up

Make a shape of 0-x-2 as a front armhole curve

Make a shape of 0-x’-2 as a front armhole curve

Mark 1’ as 1.5cms to 2.5cms above from 1

Seam Allowance:

¼” armhole

1½” on hemlines

We can make this cap sleeve with our basic sleeve draft by following instructions:

• Take your sleeve draft and draw bicep line and grain line. Click here to learn draft details of BASIC SLEEVE.
• Mark the meeting point of bicep line and grain line. Then make another mark 1.5cms to 2.5cms above the previous mark.
• Join the armhole edges through this mark with gentle curve line. Yes…Now you get the cap sleeve draft.

Sewing Instruction:

• Finish the sleeve edge by folding it up twice and stitching it flat.
• Turn the dress or top inside out
• Pin the curve to your armhole side by facing right sides together.
• Sew the sleeve into the armhole.
• Repeat the process for the other sleeve.

Things to remember:

• Be sure to mark where the sleeve ends on the front and back at bodice.
• For a basic sleeve, you could turn and stitch the hem, but this sleeve looks finest with a hem facing. The facing should be applied before setting the sleeve into the armhole.
• Grain line is the fold line in draft.

Cap Sleeve Variations:

• First one that mentioned in below picture is Basic Cap sleeve that start and end at side seam.
• Second one is start and end 1” to 2” away from side seam.

Third one is start and end with Point x and x’ (mentioned in construction draft). This type of cap sleeve pattern mostly suitable for strapless dresses to make a trendy look.

Cap sleeves are effective for women who are self-aware about their shoulders. V-shaped bodies look predominantly good in cap sleeves, because of the style’s ability to make the shoulders look narrower.

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Triangle Panel Anarkali

Keerthi Ezhil

Triangle panel Anarkali is little accumulation or variation of Panel Anarkali. These types of Anarkali top having fit bodice and flare skirt part with Triangle and rectangle panels. This Anarkali suit stitched with thin fabrics like chiffon, Georgette, net, tissue & cotton with proper lining.

Here we are going to learn how to make draft of Anarkali with Triangle panels form Basic A-line Kameez draft. For that first we should know about the basic Kameez draft. Click HERE to see Kameez draft construction method.

Construction: Front & Back

First we need Kameez draft then follow the instructions to make A line draft. If u wants to make high waist line Anarkali add this following construction points to the basic Kameez draft.

(0-10’)             = Shoulder to under bust length

(10’-11’) = ½ high waist

Then Join 11’-4’ side seam line.

Instruction for A-line draft & Flare type draft:

• Mark the centre points of (1-4) & (12-13) and draw line to join that points.

Cut the line and slash as like as the draft 1. Now you have A-line draft.

• Draw a straight upward line form the mid point of (12-13) to meet the line (10-11) in A-line draft.

Cut the line and slash to have a flare draft. Refer draft 1 image.

Cutting line:

Front: 9-7-6-x’-3-11-13-4’-1                     (9-1) on fold

Back: 8-7-6-x-3-11-13-4’-1                       (8-1) on fold

Cut 8-8’ on fold for back neck slit opening

[Note:

• Neck slit opening need only at the circumference of head is lesser than neck circumference.
• If it is high waist Anarkali use point 11’ instead of 11 in Cutting line instruction.]

• Here I take Basic A line Kameez draft and open the fold of front & back draft and mark 8 divided equal points at 1” above waist line and Hem line.
• Join the darts vertically (Refer image)
• Cut along these lines till to the marked point, it should not cross the line of front & back part.

• Time to make triangle panels, we need 18 triangle panels.
• Now we have to measure the length and width of panel and draft triangle pieces with these measurements.
• Cut 18 triangle pieces, we have to attach 7 pieces at front, 7 pieces at back and 2 pieces at 2 sides of the panels gape.
• Finish Neck lines, sleeve (option), Shoulder and hemline. Sewing Instructions are same as Kameez. Click HERE to Refer Kameez tutorial.

I hope you learn this Triangle Panel Anarkali with these simple draft and Instructions… Happy sewing…

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